Prowler Car

http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/023751.html

John Collins-Method

Remove rear cross member, use a Felpro Kit and they come with a pan gasket along with the filter and O ring. If you don’t use the seal you will have to glue the pan back like the factory did. Put in about 4 or 5 quarts of ATF 4 and let it go threw the gears using the manual over ride also using reverse to get it up to factory temp. and then it put the car on the ground and check the fluid. Most Prowlers will take 5 to 6 quarts. Always pick up 8 quarts for the job.

The Filter can not be changed with out removing the pan or the magnet cleaned.

Here is one of the pry spots as all Prowler Pans are installed at the factory with Black Sealer.

Here is where I start.

Leave about 4 corner bolts in but loose to hold the pan in place when you do the pry the pan off from the factory glue.

Use the pry spots that I showed you earlier to help drain the fluid out or I guess you could use the pump to suck it out.. Do a product review on the pump from Harbor Freight, as it’s not very good and I was afraid that I would make a mess and I didn’t want it on the trunk carpet.. I have a very large pan and always put some card board down and then it’s not a big deal.

Two clips hold the filter on.

Make sure that the old “o” ring is removed and put the new one on the new filter and put a little trans fluid on it as it makes it super easy to push back on.

Something to think about as when I put the welded drain plugs in I put them in the left front corner when looking at the back of the car to the front.. If the car has a after market roll pan you will be able to still drain it with no mess.

By quincy

I had my transaxle serviced a few years ago at a Chrysler dealership. They put her on a rack and hooked up the trans cooler lines to a special machine. With the cat running the trans pumped out the old fluid while the machine filled with new fluid. Reminded me of a heart/lung machine. I believe this method is best because a static drain with the pan off will not empty the torque converter, which may hold up to 8-9 quarts. Then I had the final drive gear oil changed with a quality synthetic 80/90 weight. Also had the 30 weight oil sucked out and changed. Yes, that’s correct. Our transaxles have three unique oils that need to be changed. The manual states every 16K miles for the final drive gears…..Sounds excessive but I follow instructions.

By RPL

Install the drain plug. Change the fluid and filter. Make sure to carefully raise the rear wheels off the ground and run the transmission through all four gears plus reverse, shut the car off and refill the transmission, repeat at least once before driving the car. The original fill does not fill the valve body. Failure to do this will result in a trans failure due to under filling the trans. You may have to add as much as two quarts after that first cycle.

By Tomcal

Drain plug is a great idea considering location of pan. Makes life easier. Pan dump and filter replacement will only remove approximately 4 quarts of fluid, about half of total (8 Qts). Majority of remaining fluid is in torque converter and clutch packs. After about a couple hundred miles or so, you can drain or suck out 4 Qts and refill.

A couple of pan bolts are shrouded by rear cross member that runs under pan. After removing bolts, tap pan sideways using a block of wood and hammer to break seal. Remember to drain when fluid is hot, or at least warm. Clean magnet that’s in pan also. Small amount of fine metal on it is normal.

When reinstalling gasket DO NOT use any type of silicone/RTV sealant. ATF+4 is very sensitive to uncured silicone, causing it to foam. It can take weeks for it to fully cure. There is a TSB on this from Chrysler. Chrysler does sell a reusable pan gasket good for about three uses, but it’s pricey. Part #05011114AA

Per service manual, install filter making sure o-ring is in place. Add 4 quarts of ATF+4, then start engine and run for 1-2 minutes. Foot on brake, run through all gears using Auto-stick mode. Hold each gear for 5 seconds ending in Park. Check fluid level with engine running. If fluid is cold, this will be at the ADD mark. Fluid will expands as it heats up. Measuring fluid you took out is a good idea and indicator.

There is no need to raise rear wheels. Just run through gears using Auto-stick. You are filling torque convertor, value body and all clutch packs by doing so. If you raise it for working clearance, then member to step on brake before putting in park. DO NOT drive until fluid level is correct. At ADD mark as a minimum. Drive and Recheck level when ATF fluid is hot. Transmission is cooled separately from engine, so you need to drive a few miles to get tranny up to temperature. Speed up over 40 mph and down lower a few times to get convertor Lock-Up circuit activated.

Over filling is just as bad as under filling.

Just a Note, Chrysler recommends a complete ATF flush every 15 thousand miles under Schedule “B”. 60 thousand under schedule “A”. Somewhere in between is probably good.

Transmission Dipstick – you access it from the trunk by rolling back the carpet and removing a rubber plug.